Nishiki Market, eaten properly: a stall-by-stall order

Nishiki Market is four hundred metres long and about half of it is now aimed squarely at tourists. That does not make it skippable — it makes it a market you need an order for.

Start mid-market at the tamagoyaki stand: sweet rolled omelette, still warm, ¥350. Work east for the tofu doughnuts, six for ¥400 and gone in six minutes.

Skip the ¥3,000 wagyu skewers at the west entrance. The same money buys a full teishoku lunch two lanes north where the office workers queue.